ANALYSIS OF INDIGENOUS MATERIALS USED IN INDIAN PAINTED AND PRINTED TEXTILES

Authors

  • Nitika Joshi Assistant Professor, Department of Home Science, Institute of Home Economics/University of Delhi, New Delhi, India
  • Simmi Bhagat Professor, Department of Home Science, Lady Irwin College/University of Delhi, New Delhi, India

DOI:

https://doi.org/10.29121/shodhkosh.v6.i2.2025.6029

Keywords:

Indigenous Materials, Conservation, Natural Dyes, Mordants, Pigments, Painted-Printed Textiles, Museums, Sustainability, Culture.

Abstract [English]

The term "indigenous" can refer to several diverse materials, including those that are easily obtainable in the vicinity, such as dyes obtained from different parts of plants, as well as various minerals. Traces of similar materials have also been discovered during excavations at several sites across the country. Due to the harsh environmental conditions in different regions, evidence of Indian textiles has been found in multiple literary works and at historical sites. These fabrics are being kept in museums all around the country for posterity's sake.
India's painted and printed textiles are an essential part of the nation's heritage. Because these textiles are endangered due to their organic nature, museums work to conserve and preserve them. Several museums, including the National Museum in Delhi and the Calico Museum in Ahmedabad, among others, display these beautiful textiles. This paper analyses the different sustainable raw materials that have been used for centuries in India's painted and printed textiles. This article reviews India's painted and printed textiles, their sources of materials, and their properties. Mainly, secondary resources have been used for data collection. Many heritage textiles, because of the prevailing use of synthetic dyes, are losing their authenticity. Moreover, this paper will help Conservators, curators, and researchers working in textile conservation and art & culture to use this information to help preserve these textiles.

References

Baek, Y.-M., Kwon, Y.-S., Goto-Doshida, S., & Saito, M. (2012). Analysis of Dyes and Mordants of 16~17th Century Textiles Excavated from Daejeon. Journal of the Korean Conservation Science for Cultural Properties, 28(2), 119–129. https://doi.org/10.12654/JCS.2012.28.2.119 DOI: https://doi.org/10.12654/JCS.2012.28.2.119

Bechtold, T., & Mussak, R. (2009). Handbook of natural colorants (Vol. 8). John Wiley & Sons. DOI: https://doi.org/10.1002/9780470744970

Chakraborty, J. (2015). Fundamentals and practices in colouration of textiles. CRC Press. DOI: https://doi.org/10.1201/b18243

Chishti, Ṛ.K., Jain, R., & Singh, M. (2000). Handcrafted Indian Textiles: Tradition and Beyond. Roli Books. https://books.google.co.in/books?id=wANFwgEACAAJ

Clifford, R. (2012). An Investigation Into The Development of Traditional Indian Textile Designs for New

Markets, with Specific Focus on the Ajrakh Block Printing of Gujarat.

Das, N. (2013). Patachitra of Orissa: A case study of Raghurajpur village. An Online Journal of Humanities & Social Science, 1(4), 247–251.

Divakala, M., & Muthian, V. (2017). Temple cloth to textile craft: The progression of Kalamkari (Vraatapani) of Srikalahasti. Craft Research, 8(1), 79–99. https://doi.org/10.1386/crre.8.1.79_1 DOI: https://doi.org/10.1386/crre.8.1.79_1

Divakala, M., & Vasantha, D. M. (n.d.). Kalamkari- The painted temple cloths. 11.

Durga Kulkarni. (2021). MATA NI PACHEDI CRAFT DOCUMENTATION. https://doi.org/10.13140/RG.2.2.10542.13127

Erikson, J. (1968). Mata Ni Pachedi: A Book on the Temple Cloth of the Mother Goddess. National

Institute of Design. https://books.google.co.in/books?id=hB8zAAAAMAAJ

Gillow, J., & Barnard, N. (1991). Traditional Indian Textiles. Thames & Hudson.

Haldar, S. K. (2017). Introduction. In Platinum-Nickel-Chromium Deposits (pp. 1–35). Elsevier. https://doi.org/10.1016/B978-0-12-802041-8.00001-8 DOI: https://doi.org/10.1016/B978-0-12-802041-8.00001-8

Hassabo, A., Othman, H., & Ebrahim, S. (2021). Natural thickener in textile printing (A Mini Review).

Journal of Textiles, Coloration and Polymer Science, 0(0), 0–0.

https://doi.org/10.21608/jtcps.2021.69482.1051 DOI: https://doi.org/10.21608/jtcps.2021.69482.1051

Hamdy, D., & Hassabo, A. (2021). Various Natural Dyes from Different Sources. Journal of Textiles,

Coloration and Polymer Science, 18(2), 171–190. https://doi.org/10.21608/jtcps.2021.79786.1066 DOI: https://doi.org/10.21608/jtcps.2021.79786.1066

Irwin, J., & Hall, M. (1971). Indian Painted and Printed Fabrics (Issue v. 1). Calico Museum of Textiles. https://books.google.co.in/books?id=iQI4AQAAIAAJ

İşmal, Ö. E., & Yıldırım, L. (2019). Metal mordants and biomordants. In The Impact and Prospects of

Green Chemistry for Textile Technology (pp. 57–82). Elsevier.

https://doi.org/10.1016/B978-0-08-102491-1.00003-4 DOI: https://doi.org/10.1016/B978-0-08-102491-1.00003-4

KalamUrfi, M., Khalid, M., & Khan, M. I. (2016). Tamarix gallica: For traditional uses, phytochemical

and pharmacological potentials. Journal of Chemical and Pharmaceutical Research, 8(1), 809–

Karolia, A., & Buch, H. (2008). Ajarkh, the resist printed fabric of Gujarat. 7(1), 6.

Legrand, C. (2013). Indigo: The Colour that Changed the World. Thames & Hudson. https://books.google.co.in/books?id=BIR8MAEACAAJ

Mohanty, B. C., Chandramouli, K. V., Naik, H. D., & Calico Museum of Textiles (India). (1987). Natural Dyeing Processes of India. Calico Museum of Textiles. https://books.google.co.in/books?id=39KRGQAACAAJ

Murphy, V., & Crill, R. (1991). Tie-dyed Textiles of India: Tradition and Trade. Victoria And Albert Museum. https://books.google.co.in/books?id=qENQAAAAMAAJ

Nöller, R. (2015). Cinnabar reviewed: Characterization of the red pigment and its reactions. Studies in Conservation, 60(2), 79–87. https://doi.org/10.1179/2047058413Y.0000000089 DOI: https://doi.org/10.1179/2047058413Y.0000000089

Pandya, A., & Vishwakarma, A. (2010). Rogan, the traditional hand painted textile of Gujarat. 9(4), 7.

Pareek, A., & Pant, S. (2015). Pattachitra-A traditional hand painted textile of Orissa. International Journal of Recent Research Aspects, 65–72.

Purohit, D. D., & Arora, A. (2017). Akola Print of Rajasthan: A Traditional Craft Skill in a Changing & Green Society. 5.

Ramani, S. (2007). Kalamkari and Traditional Design Heritage of India. Wisdom Tree. https://books.google.co.in/books?id=WZo5OQAACAAJ

Rajvanshi, R., & Srivastava, M. (2013). Phad painting of Bhilwara, Rajasthan. Asian Journal of Home

Science, 8(2), 746–749.

Rosenfield, Y., & Shibayama, N. (2020). The Color Red: Madder Dyes as Determinants of Provenance in

a Group of Kalamkari Textiles. The Textile Museum Journal, 47(1), 83–107.

https://doi.org/10.1353/tmj.2020.a932816 DOI: https://doi.org/10.1353/tmj.2020.a932816

Satyanarayana, D., & Chandra, K. R. (2013). Dyeing of cotton cloth with natural dye extracted from pomegranate peel and its fastness. International Journal of Engineering Sciences & Research Technology, 2(10), 2664–2669.

Saxena, S., & Raja, A. S. M. (2014). Natural Dyes: Sources, Chemistry, Application and Sustainability Issues. In S. S. Muthu (Ed.), Roadmap to Sustainable Textiles and Clothing (pp. 37–80). Springer Singapore. https://doi.org/10.1007/978-981-287-065-0_2 DOI: https://doi.org/10.1007/978-981-287-065-0_2

Sethna, N. H. (1985). Kalamkari: Painted & Printed Fabrics from Andhra Pradesh. Mapin. https://books.google.co.in/books?id=CFZQAAAAMAAJ

Singh, K., Kumar, P., & Singh, N. V. (2020). Natural Dyes: An Emerging Ecofriendly Solution For Textile

Industries. EM International Journal, 39(Feb Suppl. Issue), 87–94.

Sravani, M., & Varma, C. R. (2020). The Ancient Art of Kalamkari: Problems and Prospects with Special Reference to Pedana, Andhra Pradesh. 9(7), 5.

Tripathy, M. (1998). Folk Art at the Crossroads of Tradition and Modernity: A Study of Patta Painting in

Orissa. 29(3), 197–211.

Tímár-Balázsy, Á., & Eastop, D. (2012). Chemical principles of textile conservation. Routledge. DOI: https://doi.org/10.4324/9780080501048

Varadarajan, L. (1982). South Indian Traditions of Kalamkari. National Institute of Design.

https://books.google.co.in/books?id=KkDrAAAAMAAJ

Wheeler, M., Burgio, L., & Shulman, M. (2011). Materials and techniques of Kalighat paintings: Pigment analysis of nine paintings from the collections of the Victoria and Albert Museum. Journal of the Institute of Conservation, 34(2), 173–185. https://doi.org/10.1080/19455224.2011.607769 DOI: https://doi.org/10.1080/19455224.2011.607769

Wisniak, J. (2004). Bleaching-From antiquity to chlorine. Indian Journal of Chemical Technology, 11,

–887.

Yusuf, M., Shabbir, M., & Mohammad, F. (2017). Natural Colorants: Historical, Processing and Sustainable Prospects. Natural Products and Bioprospecting, 7(1), 123–145. https://doi.org/10.1007/s13659-017-0119-9 DOI: https://doi.org/10.1007/s13659-017-0119-9

Downloads

Published

2025-08-11

How to Cite

Joshi, N., & Bhagat, S. (2025). ANALYSIS OF INDIGENOUS MATERIALS USED IN INDIAN PAINTED AND PRINTED TEXTILES. ShodhKosh: Journal of Visual and Performing Arts, 6(2), 70–81. https://doi.org/10.29121/shodhkosh.v6.i2.2025.6029